TOURNE DE TRANSMISSION AW 16 PRESENTATION
This season is fuelled by the idea of a lone figure who has crossed continents; a searcher, wanderer and a peaceful warrior, picking up clothing from the different cultures – and wearing it all at once.
This ‘searcher’ takes a rejuvenating spiritual stop in Tibet which has inspired the shows set by Art Director Johnny Buttons, who has handmade and painted over 3000 “wind horses” (prayer flags) attached to a 24 metre D-shape, painted mat black bamboo structure, mirroring eastern construction techniques.
“The book ‘Tibetan Style’ by Yann Romain has especially become a bit of a bible to me,” reveals creative director Graeme Gaughan. “Tibet is a place I find hugely inspirational, the clothing habits of its people and the way they put together colour is like nowhere else.”
A long, robe-like silhouette is key to the collection. The feeling is eclectic with more colour – camel, plum, blue jeans – than before. Checks and plaids are overdyed. Vintage military garments are reworked: a Vietnam field shirt, a flight suit chopped in half as trousers. A colourful ikat kimono has extra long sleeves, based on the Tibetan tradition of having one sleeve longer than the other while patchwork repared coats have staggered hems.
The show is a tribute to the legendary Barry Kamen, who passed away last year. Kamen was synonymous with the Buffalo movement of the 80’s and styled the debut presentation of Tourne de Transmission, SS16.
“The thing I will miss the most are our long chats,” says Gaughan. “You were never stuck for conversation and his childlike enthusiasm for everything around him was intoxicating. He was a child of mixed heritage and we really bonded over our appreciation of cross-cultural clothing traditions and fashion.
Jewellery in the show is provided by another London great, Judy Blame, who also rose from the Buffalo movement and was a friend and contemporary of Kamen’s.
Hats this season are by South African milliner Simon and Mary, based around native design and tribes of the continent. The Amsterdam brand Ace & Tate contributes clip-on sun lens eyewear with an explorer feel. Watches by Nixon tap into the colours of the collection